Cecha, Cannellini bean puree and bread

They make friends quickly because they’re so friendly, Jemai mentioned. We observed as diners trickled past all night, shaking hands and chatting over their wine. The Olive Garden may claim that you’re family there, but you can envision it being true at La Maschera. The name of the game is good food in a warm, inviting, low-key atmosphere.

“I don’t pretend to be fine dining or really serious; I don’t want to do that, even though we carry serious food and serious wine,” said Jemai.

Serious food and wine, indeed. We began with a bit of an appetizer, canolini bean puree, cecha (KEH-ka) and dried pita and nice, coarse bread for dipping. As our charming waiter Nino explained while pouring a few glasses of Le Carline prosecco, it takes a while to get the kitchen warmed up, but this was Italian dining, so there’s always a little something to nibble on. The cecha was especially tender and flavorful with hints of basil and olive oil.

Rottoli di Pettine

All ingredients are fresh throughout the menu, with items like seafood flown in daily from around the world. I’m grateful our next dish, Rottoli di Pettine, was willing to make the trip. These mild, well-textured seared scallops provided a balanced backdrop for the accompanying mango-lime salsa and warm and firm zucchini. Light and clean, the scallops define a perfect appetizer. These we enjoyed with a refreshing and fruity white, Due Uve (“two grapes”), a blend of sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio.

Next was the Quaglia Agresto (say it “kwag-lee-uh-gresto”), pan-seared quail served with dried apricots and verjuice. The sauce was smothering and sweet, pungent like soy sauce, but soft and velvety. The quail meat, as our waiter aptly put it, was exquisite, and paired with a medium-bodied and slightly fruity pinot noir, allowing us to “ease into” the reds.

The Tagliatelle con Anatra, a linguini dish sauced with duck sausage, orange zest, spicy African almonds and salsa rosa was accompanied by an Italian Chianti classico. The real thing, Nino noted. Of the reported ten million bottles of wine marked “Chianti” last year, only three million were legitimate Chianti. The combination of the pasta and the wine was explosive and intense, as wine and food drew out latent flavors in each other.

The Dining Room

The evening’s special, halibut garnished with organic cherry tomatoes and served in pureed squid ink, receives a ten for dramatic presentation. The fish was flaky, flavorful and excellent, never frozen, as Sean pointed out. As for the pureed squid ink, I’ve not acquired a taste for exotic marine delicacies and was nonplussed. Should the opportunity present itself, order the ink on the side. You might like it, but if not, you won’t spend time trying (and failing) to rescue the fish from being inked. The halibut swam in good company with the restaurant’s most popular pinot grigio, a light, clean, fruity wine that didn’t dry out the food.

For dessert, we had limoncello, named for the liqueur produced in southern Italy. With lemon and orange zest, ladyfingers, mascarpone cheese and a bit of Marsala wine, it is a light and perfect finish to a fabulous dining experience. La Maschera is a must-do in Pasadena; if you love Italian food and good wine, welcome home.

La Maschera is located at 82 N. Fair Oaks Ave., just south of Union. Visit online at www.lamascheraristorante.com, and be sure to make a reservation beforehand by calling (626) 304-0004. They are open for dinner Monday - Sunday 5:00 - 10:30 p.m. The Bar/Lounge is open from 5:00 p.m. - 12:30 a.m., their happy is hour is Monday - Thursday from 5:00 - 7:00 p.m.